For this week’s post, I am back to my challenge to visit as many Thames stairs as possible, and have arrived at East Lane Stairs, at the end of East Lane, at the junction with Bermondsey Wall West. In the following photo, the stairs are behind the locked gates to the left of the photo:

East Lane Stairs are on the southern bank of the Thames, a short distance to the east of St. Saviour’s Dock.
Unfortunately it is not possible to visit the stairs as they are behind a locked gate. We can see the typical low concrete wall that provides a step up to the top of the steps on the river side, the concrete wall is there to prevent high tides from spilling into the street:

I am not sure what the metal frames on the left are – perhaps bike racks as the old warehouse to the left has been converted to office / commercial space along with residential.
I have marked the location of East Lane Stairs in the following map. The large light purple colour area to the right of the stairs is one of the construction sites for the Thames Tideway Tunnel. Work now seems to be completed, and I suspect more development work will take place here to build on top of the site (© OpenStreetMap contributors):

Dating the stairs is difficult. The earliest newspaper reference I could find to the stairs dates from 1803, when they were included in a list of rates that could be charged for rowing a passenger between stairs (8d to be rowed from London Bridge to East Lane Stairs).
They are though much older than 1803, as they appear in Rocque’s map of 1746, where they can be seen in the centre of the map:

In the above map extract, East Lane can be seen running back from the location of the stairs, which are slightly offset from East Lane – exactly as they are today.
East Lane in the following photo, as it is today, looking back from near the location of the stairs. The street is shorter today than it was in Rocque’s map as Chambers Street runs left to right at the end of the street, and housing has been built across where East Lane continued into the gardens and fields around Bermondsey:

In the Port of London Authority’s Access to the River Thames listing, East Lane Stairs are listed as being dilapidated and not in use. The listing does not include any information as to when they were in use, but it does provide a clue of the work carried out next to the stairs, as in backets next to the name is “London Grist Mill”.
33 Bermondsey Wall West, the large brick building to the left of the stairs (as you face them from the street), was the London Grist Mill, a business which was established next to the stairs in 1891, and followed on the building’s previous use as a granary, by now also milling corn. The building is shown in the following photo:

33 Bermondsey Wall West / London Grist Mill was Grade II listed in 1983. The listing includes that as part of the infrastructure of the old mill: “A series of wooden chutes is said to remain in situ, descending from the top floor to the 1st floor terminating in a movable table system leading to a hand winch by the loading hatch”. This was before the conversion of the building to office and residential and it would interesting to know if features such as the wooden chutes have survived.
The London Grist Mill was mentioned in a letter to the editor of the Southwark and Bermondsey Recorder on the 10th of January 1913, regarding the condition of the stairs and the foreshore:
“THE MUD AT EAST LANE STAIRS. Sir,-In your edition of Nov.22nd, you published a letter of complaint about the mud at East Lane, which was read by most of the waterside people, and one of the P.L.A. was sent down to the London Grist Mill Co., to enquire about it. Last Monday, the 6th inst., about midday, a barge berthed at the London Grist Mill Co’s wharf, which is next to East Lane Stairs, stuck in the mud and the water flowed over her, thus proving the truth of my complaint. The barge was the ‘Darfield’ belonging to Messrs. C. and J. Denny, loaded with about 600 sacks of oats. – Yours faithfully, B. Jewson.”
The dangerous condition of the stairs seems to have been a common theme in newspaper reporting (although it is usually only bad news that makes the press), and there was another article with the title “Dangerous East Lane Stairs” in the Southwark and Bermondsey Recorder on the 7th July 1894 regarding the body of a man that was found by the stairs, and that at his inquest “The jury returned an open verdict, and added a rider asking the coroner to communicate with the local authorities with respect to the condition of the stairs”.
Because the entrance is gated and locked, it is very difficult to see the stairs. There is a new apartment building to the right of the stairs, and a walkway that runs along the bottom of this building, alongside the stairs. This has a large wall, but it is possible to poke a camera over the top and get a glimpse of the stairs:

The stairs do not look in too good a shape, and they appear undermined at the base. There was also a causeway that led out from the stairs, and this seems to have been lost to the river.
As with the adjacent building, East Lane Stairs are also Grade II listed. The Historic England listing does not state why the stairs were listed, only that “River stairs appearing as such on Horwood’s map of 1799 and the OS of 1872; possibly the same as “East Stairs” on Roque’s map of 1746. Stone-flagged hard now broken up”. I suspect that as the year of listing of the stairs is the same as the London Grist Mill, the stairs were automatically included in the listing process.
Looking at East Lane Stairs today, it seems remarkable that this would once have been your embarkation point for some rather exotic locations in the mid-19th century. Many river stairs were used by shipping companies that took passengers, and in 1858, the Greek and Oriental Steam Navigation Company was advertising that:
“For Corfu, Syra and Constantinople, the S.S. General Williams, Capt. J.Peter of 2200 tons burthen, and 300 horse power, expected to clear 5th Nov. Lying at East Lane Stairs.
For Coru, Trieste and Venice. The S.S. Milo, Capt. Robinson of 1300 tons burthen, and 360 horse power, expected to clear 15th Nov. Lying at East Lane Stairs.”
Twenty years before the above advert, one of the companies that would later become P&O was operating off East Lane Stairs:
“PENINSULAR STEAM NAVIGATION COMPANY. For Lisbon, Cadiz and Gibraltar, calling off Oporto, weather permitting. The Liverpool, Captain Hepburn, of 500 tons and 160 horse-power, elegantly fitted up, and well known for her great speed, will start for the above ports from off East Lane Stairs on Tuesday, the 1st March, at Two o’clock.”
Thames stairs were once the equivalent of airports, when the only means of overseas travel was by ship.
Thames stairs were also an integral part of travelling in London, whether across or along the river. An example from the Southwark and Bermondsey Recorder on the 20th of March 1869 illustrates how crossing the river at East Lane Stairs was an integral part of a journey, just like taking an underground train today:
“15s REWARD. LOST ! On SUNDAY LAST MARCH 14th, 1869, between Fort Road, Bermondsey (via East Lane Stairs), and Clark Street, Stepney. TWO LOCKETS. One Large with Portrait, the other Small with Key and Appendages. They are of little intrinsic worth, but valuable to the Owner as Family Relics. Whosoever will bring the same to Miss Lang, 49 Fort Road, Upper Grange Road, or to Mrs. Finch, 64 Clark Street, Stepney, shall receive the above reward.”
I suspect that the act of getting on or off a boat was often a time when possessions would be dropped, so the lockets may have ended up in the Thames, but it would have been good if Miss Lang got her lockets back – we will never know.
The view looking across the river and over towards the City from the side of East Lane Stairs:

The wooden structures on the foreshore and the remains of a crane on the building are a reminder of the infrastructure that was needed to transfer goods between warehouse / mill and ships.
There is an interesting advert in the Southwark Mercury on the 15th of February 1879 which mentions East Lane Stairs along with a new form of transport in London: “Seven Freehold Cottages and Piece of Building Land situate near the Spa Road Railway Station and East Lane Stairs and producing £50 per annum, almost equal to the ground rent.”
The advert highlights the importance of Thames stairs as a reference point. Where today, we may reference somewhere as being near a railway or underground station, Thames Stairs fulfilled this function for hundreds of years, and in 1879, we see the name of a railway station also being used.
A common theme with reporting on Thames stairs is the amount deaths associated with the stairs location, with an incredible number of bodies being found in the river near the stairs. The following, from the London Evening News on the 12th of December 1884 is one of the more unusual:
“SHOCKING DISCOVERY IN A BOAT ON THE THAMES. A lighterman. named White, about forty years of age, residing at East-lane, Bermondsey, was discovered about seven o’clock yesterday morning sitting up in his boat, off East-lane stairs, and quite dead. He had been engaged during the night in taking the workmen to and from a vessel lying out in the river, on which some urgent work was being done. The deceased was found within a short distance of the landing place, which is close to his home. It is supposed that he was seized with a sudden fit, and dropped one of his oars into the water, the other being found lying in his boat.”
The 1930s seems a common decade for final reporting of events at Thames stairs. I suspect the war during the first half of the 1940s, followed by the changes that the war had brought to the buildings, businesses and communities along the river, along with the trend for larger ships and larger docks, and alternatives for travelling across London and across the river, resulted in the decline in use of Thames stairs.
One final 1930s reference also follows a tragic theme seen at many other Thames stairs, where a 13 year old boy drowned whilst playing in the river with a friend. The boy who survived stated why they were playing at the stairs during the inquest: “We went to the public baths but found it was mixed bathing and we would have to pay threepence, so we went to East Lane Stairs to bathe in the river”.
Whilst East Lane Stairs seem to have been a very typical Thames river stair along the north and southern bank as the Thames headed east, East Lane Stairs appears to be the exception to my theory that stairs in commercial and populated areas always had a pub associated with them.
There were plenty of pubs along Bermondsey Wall, but I cannot find any pub close enough to be directly associated with East Lane Stairs.
Walking further along the walkway at the base of the building to the right of the stairs provides a wider view of the river from East Lane Stairs, and includes the crane that is mounted on the building to the left:

From the street, you would not know that East Lane Stairs are behind the locked gate.
As I have mentioned in previous posts on Thames stairs, these were once a major part of life in London. To show their relevance, a search for the name of the stairs in the British Newspaper Archive returned 1,691 results between 1802 and 1955. There are obviously duplicates where different newspapers covered the same story, but it is still a considerable number.
The very last mention of the stairs was in 1955 when Bermondsey Council was attempting to close the stairs as a right of way. Mr James Taylor, a London Waterman took the issue to the London Sessions, claiming that “He was defending a right of way up and down East Lane Stairs which he and his ancestors for three generations had used in the way of their craft to take pilots, crews, and other such people, to and from cargo ships”.
James Taylor won his case, and the article ended with “So the East Lane Stairs will remain in use, we may hope for many centuries yet” – sadly, within a few decades they were closed, and they look unlikely to ever open again.















































